The MSP Food Critics Review
Superb Italian Food With Ambience and Service to Match
Review by The MSP Food Critics
Nick and Natasha Laul
Posted by The MSP Food Critics at 5:15 PM, Sunday, November 25, 2007
| Category: Italian Rating (Scale 1-10, with 10 being the highest): Food: 10 Service: 9 Ambience: 9 Recommendation: Excellent. This restaurant takes the concept of a neighborhood eatery to the next level. Superb Italian food with ambience and service to match. |
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The concept of a neighborhood Italian bistro is nothing new to the Twin Cities (case in point, Al Vento in SE Minneapolis and Arezzo in Edina’s 50th and France area). La Grolla, like the others, offers a cozy and warm atmosphere reminiscent of small family run establishments around Italy. It is located in the Cathedral Hill neighborhood of St. Paul, which is St. Paul’s “Restaurant Row” with many eateries such as WA Frost, Zander Café, Moscow on the Hill located right next to each other. The dim lighting, coupled with faux finished walls and paintings depicting scenes of Italy allows you to reminisce about time spent with your loved one strolling down the streets of a small Italian town. But what about the food – does it live up to the standard set by the ambience? Will I leave feeling that I experienced a slice of Italy – in St. Paul? Yes and Yes. It’s a joy to experience a culinary adventure where the chef is at the top of his game. Chef and owner Antonio Tettamanzi opened La Grolla in 2002 and based on the busy dining room on a Tuesday night it’s apparent that he has found a winning combination. The standard menu is complemented by a full page specials list. The wine list has some great selections – we picked an Italian Pinot Noir (2006 Laetitia Pinot Noir) and were thrilled. For appetizers we loved the Asparagi al Gorgonzola (grilled asparagus with polenta and gorgonzola fondue) and Carpaccio di Manzo (thin sliced beef tenderloin with parmesan and lemon/Dijon vinaigrette). The asparagus was tender and grilled perfectly (slightly charred, the gorgonzola fondue wasn’t overpowering, and the polenta was delicious. The Carpaccio was superb – the hint of sourness from the vinaigrette matched perfectly with the fresh shaved parmesan. The fresh and simple Caprese Salad was to die for, with the tender mozzarella being the highlight of the salad. |
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We tried one of the pasta specials – Parpadelle with Porcini Mushrooms and Duck Ragu. The pasta was fresh and the ragu sauce had earthiness from the porcini and a hint of sweetness from the duck. |
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The Gnocchi alla Salentina (potato dumplings with tomato, basil and mozzarella) was at par with the best we have had in the Twin Cities. We love Gnocchi, but also have high standards when it comes to this, one of our favorite Italian delicacies, which is too often butchered by the best restaurants in the US. Luckily for us, La Grolla does Gnocchi really well – it melts in your mouth and is paired with a light tomato sauce that still allows you to appreciate the flavor of the Gnocchi. Our friends had the Spaghetti Puttanesca (with kalamata olives, capers, garlic, and basil), Pollo alla Capricciosa (pan seared breaded chicken breast with tomato and mozzarella, and Pollo Champagne (pan seared chicken breast with shallots, sun-dried tomatoes, and champagne cream sauce) and were very pleased with their meal. |
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For dessert, we went traditional – the Tiramisu was delicious. Our server did a great job managing a busy restaurant. We were never neglected, our food was served promptly and the bread (awesome!) was replenished several times. The restaurant also has patio dining and has just started serving Sunday brunch. |
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$$-$$$. Dinner for two with a couple of appetizers and half a bottle of wine was $100. Street parking on Selby Ave. About MSP Food Critics Reviews Nick and Natasha Laul only comment on dishes they have tried first-hand. Price categories indicate typical cost of a dinner entrée for one: $ = less than $10 Please keep in mind that you should interpret the ratings in the context in which they are provided (usually by cuisine). A “9” for a Chinese restaurant doesn’t really compare to a “9” for an up-scale American restaurant. The MSP Food Critics Nick and Natasha Laul have lived in Minneapolis for over 7 years and have really seen the restaurant scene morph from chain-restaurants to the diverse eclectic mix it is today that has put Minneapolis on the culinary map. They love trying new restaurants and love sharing their experiences with others. If you wish to share feedback with Nick and Natasha Laul, you can email them at Contact @ mspfoodies.com Read the post on mspfoodies.com > |
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